I’m a huge fan of octoprint on raspberry pi. I’m not a huge fan of raspberry pi lately. I’ve heard of le potato and orange pi. Some searching shows that people have done it on both of those.
Does anyone have any experience running it on a small board computer other than raspi?
To answer the direct question - no
I do have some thoughts on moving away from the Pi though - warning, heavy personal bias ahead…
If you’re looking at moving away from the Pi I would just suggest a low power x86 box, like a Nuc or some Intel N100 low-power tiny PC.
There is a caveat though - it looks like the OctoPi project only provides OS builds for the Pi, so if you change systems it looks like you’ll need to install OctoPrint manually, and port over your config somehow.
On ebay you can get second-hand NUCs, 6th gen and up, for practically peanuts. The cheaper quad core celeron nucs (i.e. J3455) are roughly equivalent to the 3rd and 4th gen dual-core i5s (3777u, 3230m etc) performance wise, but have an updated QuickSync encoder and support accelerated 4K video encoding/playback, handy if you want to capture timelapses of your prints or just view them live. They also consume 1/3rd of the power at around 10 watts under the same workload.
ARM support for other vendors can be pretty flaky, sometimes even non existent. While you could pick an Orange Pi, and go with a modern community-supported distro like Armbian, it isn’t a turnkey experience like the Pi. There is much less documentation, and still some very early boards floating around with hardware defects and overheating issues (posing a fire risk in the worst case, the OPi Zero being the most egregious - literally melting the optional enclosure and killing the NIC). Some research before buying will let you know most of what you need to know - check around the forums for any common issues and dealbreakers, as well as the manufacturer’s site to get an idea of available support.
If you want to get an idea of the alternatives you could check out Jeff Geerling’s youtube channel, he covers the Pi and occasionally videos on other alternatives, as well as issues he’s had with them and support. I’ll try and link some below…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KghZIgkKZcs
Check the comments on that one for a quick synopsis, as the video is quite long…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjzvh-bfV-E
This video pretty much just echoes my current perspective
I will second this recommendation. The main purpose of the SBCs is running Linux with easy access to GPIO pins. If you are using USB just run off of a small x86 machine and avoid the hassle.
The up side to SBC computers is also their low power consumption. Something like a Pi is half the power consumption of an N100 PC, in addition to being half the cost. If you only need 1/1000th the CPU then why pay all this extra money and use all this extra power to gain nothing?
A second hand NUC is quite a bit cheaper than a pi once you factor in power supply, storage and case. They’re also not as power hungry as you suggest. My entire smarthome is powered by an old NUC running Proxmox with HA in a VM and some LXCs (adguard among other things), and it pulls a meager 7W on average, that’s only a few more than a pi and it has a 3ghz quadcore CPU, 16gb ram and 1tb NVME, so it has all the overhead you need to do small projects on the side with it as well.
Unless you need the GPIO, an SBC is pretty much never the best solution anymore.
If you plan on doing a lot with the machine then yeah it does make sense to get something better than a Pi. But for just octoprint any Pi is plenty.
SD cards are a couple dollars, the pi 3 and below will run on any usb power brick. The 4 and 5 will run on any not low power brick you have lying around, but even if you feel the need to buy one the official one is like $15, and you can reuse it for other things too. And you can always 3d print a case if that’s really a problem, but I just let my pis dangle there, or I put them back in their box.
Also second hand pis exist too, if you’re really strapped for cash you can get a full pi, case, sd card, and power supply for about the price of just the pi new. During the pandemic when Pis weren’t in stock I got a full setup for a pi 3 + this bluetooth keyboard trackpad thingy for $30.
But for 15$ more, you get an immensely more useful tool for when you (probably) inevitably want to do more/other things. SD cards for a few bucks burn out really quickly, so you’d really want a good one (significantly more expensive) or an SSD, bringing the total cost of a pi above a used NUC, with worse specs all around.
I really can’t see the argument, neither financial, performance/watt or performance/$ for an SBC if you don’t need GPIOs.
That’s the key here, not everyone wants to do that. OP specifically asked for something to run octoprint, not an entire homelab. Not everyone is interested in that.
Ah, but the thing is there are older platforms than the N100 that are still faster and more expandable than a rPi.
I have an AliExpress eWaste special that’s a N3350, 6gb of RAM, and 64gb of eMMC storage which was ~$50.
About the same price as a new Pi, somewhat better performance than a Pi, and at about 4w idle, roughly the same power as a new Pi. Full load is closer to 10w, but we’re talking 3 or maybe 4w more than the Pi in a relatively rare situation for a lot of Pi use cases.
And, of course, at full clocks, it’s faster than a Pi4 so you are getting something for those watts.
And use more power. If you’re just doing octoprint then a full ass PC is kinda silly.
It’s not the pandemic anymore so you can find pis all over the place for their proper price. My local micro center has 25+ zero ws in stock for $8 and that should be plenty for running octoprint. The Zero 2W $15 (current none in stock) and 3A+ $25 (1 in stock) are also a really good values. Even if you go for the Pi4 you can still find the base model for $35 here and there.
Compared to the power consumption of your 3D printer itself, the wattage drawn by an x86 mini-PC system is a rounding error. What, 19 watts burst under “boost” conditions, and 3 to 7 watts otherwise?
My Qidi X-Max 3 draws roughly 250 watts when printing basic PLA and its hotend and plate are at temperature. During preheat it can touch 400. And that’s without the chamber heater – that alone is rated a 300 watts.
Sure while the printer is going, but are you ever going to turn the computer off? I’m sure as hell not going to which is why idle consumption matters so much to me.
Why not? When I was using a Pi to run my old printer via Octoprint, I turned the whole shebang off at the power strip when I wasn’t using it. The Pi doesn’t have a power button, so it was easiest to just killswitch the entire kit and kaboodle.
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