• 9 Posts
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Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: June 30th, 2023

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  • Amazing response, thank you!!! I’m watching the video now and will follow all these suggestions.

    So I’m not in Florida, but I am in the tropics. But we do have similar challenges, and I’ll use Florida growers if I’m looking for something.

    This video would be a good review, but I’m sure you’ve already done this level of research.

    https://inv.nadeko.net/watch?v=vpMtjNVGfJQ

    A few things I can start you with, some are going to be specific to tomatoes, some are going to be just general growing tips.

    First, we want to separate out few things.

    Starting plants and getting healthy starts is a skill all unto itself. Its why I don’t recommend people starting with seeds if they are just getting started. There is no shame in just going to a garden center and buying a few starts, or even some established tomatoes. If you’ve struggled with a plant type before, this is a good starting point. Simplify the problem by making it smaller, and cutting out a very challenging step like starting and establishing the plants perfectly acceptable.

    The best prevention of disease among any plants is health. A healthy plant can usually shrug off most things if its a strong and healthy plant to start with, which is another reason to buy a good quality start from a reputable grower. Not starting with healthy plants is not setting yourself up for success. It sounds like you’ve even keyed in on a few varieties. That’s great. The video I put up top also mentioned some other good varieties that do well in high heat and humidity.

    We’re still really talking about health, but tomatoes are heavy, heavy feeders. And fertilization is key. Lots of nitrogen, tomatoes just eat it right up. To the point you can struggle to get fruit if you feed to heavily (at least too much N) but N is critical to getting them established and health.

    Tomatoes need AIR and lots of it. Aggressive pruning of suckers and leaves to provide more airspace so that the area around the plants local leaf environment is less humid. This helps especially with fungal diseases. Also, avoid getting any soil on, or have any leaves touch the soil if soil borne diseases are an issue. The key to any commercial operation is sanitation. Commercial nurseries will scold you if you dont disinfect your tools between any interaction with plant tissue to the point that wiping them down becomes second nature. Fusarium wilt and vertiulum wilt are both soil borne diseases. Now maybe its in your soil, but if you live in an area with lots of ag, it could be soil getting blown onto where your tomatoes are planted. Here in Hawaii, its not fusarium, but a type of tropical fruit fly thats our biggest issue, and it attacks young growing fruits by laying its egg in them. Because of this we use mesh on our tomatoes and often bag the whole plant in a fine mesh. But this mesh can also prevent diseases that come from blow soil landing on their leaves.

    After reading your case and responses, my suspicion, and I might be wrong, is that you are trying to do a lot, and would benefit from breaking the process down into smaller parts, and then just trying to do one part well (growing the tomatoes part). Don’t worry about starting the plants or hydroponics until you get some small successes overcoming these disease and health issues. Hydroponics won’t help if the actual issue is that your neighbor has some plant harboring the disease nearby, and just spores or dust is being blown in. I don’t want to be patronizing because I see and acknowledge you’ve already put a lot of effort into seeking success here.

    What I would recommend is simplifying the problem down to the most basic possible case, and when that is working, then build up from that. 4 five gallon pots, and pick 4 varieties that are known to work in your environment. Buy fresh, bagged garden soil, not yard soil for this. Get established plants from a reputable grower. Cut out all the possible places it could go wrong.



  • I met another local gardener through an online board game but he was unable to offer advice on wilt disease prevention. Do you have any actionable advice on how to prevent fusarium wilt and/or verticulum wilt? I’m inexperienced with Lemmy so if you can’t view this screenshot easily, I’ve transcribed it below:

    I had a gardening question if you grow tomatoes

    I have tried about 12 different tomato cultivars (medium to large sized, for sandwich slicing) and they all die halfway into their life cycle due to the 2 common wilt diseases in Florida’s hot humid weather

    My best attempt was with better boy hybrid but I only got about 8-10 tomatoes and they were not big & healthy but undersized due to the struggling plant

    I can do fine with cherry tomatoes (supersweet 100s and Everglades tomatoes) but I’ve never been a successful tomato gardener and have tried all the tips such as well draining soil, mixing in compost, watering at the base so the leaves don’t get wet, etc…

    I have not bothered with hydroponic soil-free substrate but I bought 2 giant boxes of it a few years ago and still have it (coco coir and perlite) but it seems too much ongoing effort even if I got 50 tomatoes or more per plant

    I also bought 200 rockwool cubes and might consider starting them in soil-free substrate and then transplant them when they are a foot tall, so they have a head-start at dealing with wilt funguses











  • but if you can’t challenge your target muscle you might look into more like a 12-20 reps range until you can round out those weaknesses.

    Thanks for the reply. It’s entirely possible that since I’ve been avoiding triceps all year, that maybe I forgot what it’s like to start training a new muscle group. My premise may have possibly been flawed (that I should feel the muscle being targeted on day-1 of a new exercise). I did 2 working sets of tricep cable kickbacks yesterday (10+ reps) and 2 working sets of rope pulls today (10+ reps).

    Tomorrow I will try the single & dual arm dumbbell extensions, as well as the skullcrushers but wanted to ask first if you use the “suicide grip” (with your thumb on the same side of the barbell as your fingers) or the “safe” barbell grip when doing barbell skull crushers? I forget the advantage of the suicide grip, which I won’t try right away but might transition to after a few weeks.





  • Definitely! I did 4 sets (of 3 reps each) of seated dumbbell shoulder press this morning and was extra mindful/perceptive today of the process – in light of yesterday’s weird phenomenon. I noticed the exact moment my brain goes into autopilot when doing sets of 3. It’s when I complete about 60% of the concentric phase of the 1st rep (when my humerus bone is slightly past being parallel with the ground) which is also slightly past the point where I consider the most difficult part of the rep. The “autopilot” ends after I rack the dumbbells. It was really fun to notice it today!