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Joined 4 years ago
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Cake day: November 18th, 2022

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  • I’ve used many different belay devices. For a lot of my climbing, my partners take a lot in order to figure out sequences. So for me, my preferred device is a grigri (it really doesn’t matter which iteration), but I have a bad and expensive habit of leaving them at the gym and people steal them :(

    I’ve used a megajul a fair bit but I will say it has one major flaw in my opinion. A number of years ago I was belaying a leader and at one point during the climb I was paying attention to them and not my hands. I had inadvertently put my thumb in the rope loop instead of the handle loop in the front of the device. If the leader had fallen off at that time, my thumb would have been amputated. It really weirds me out how easy that is to do on that device.




  • I don’t think it’s possible. Rock Auto doesn’t list the country of manufacture. I’m pretty sure it’s because very often the exact same item (part, brand, and serial number) is made in different factories in different countries. I’ve ordered the exact same thing and sometimes it says made in China, other times Mexico for example. I’m pretty sure this is true regardless of which retailer you order from, so unless you are physically looking at the item before you buy it, you probably won’t be able to know. And these days, even going to my local parts store, they will most of the time need to order parts in from elsewhere.

    If you’re asking if there’s a Canadian alternative to Rockauto, I’d also love to know.


  • My elbows have been come-and-go for almost my entire climbing career, north of 20 years. Most often its golfer’s elbow. The past couple of years my golfer’s elbow has been fine, but I’ve had some tennis elbow flare up as well as my brachioradialis. I found at that time that pullups were making the tennis elbow worse, so for a long time I had swapped out pullups with some hammer curls, focusing on slow eccentrics to rehab the brachioradialis. Both those issues are mostly gone, now, so I’ve very gently re-introduced pullups to my routine.

    I’ve played with Abrahangs in the past, in fact I did a couple of months of them when my sinovitis was really bad. I can’t say if they did anything, unfortunately. Abrahangs and flexibility are things that I just haven’t been able to make stick.


  • Recently it’s been hard for me to get to the gym. Luckily I can still climb outside on the odd weekend since its summer. Also, I am very lucky in that I have a good set of boulders within walking distance from my house. At the same time I’ve been nursing chronic synovitis that has been slowly getting better. I’ve been trying to keep fit by cycling through a few routines. I’ll miss a day every few days which gives me a natural sprinkling of rest days, and I’ll just continue the next day where I left off.

    1 - Some rehab exercises (wrist curls and weighted wrist rotations), pullups (I have to be very careful with pullups or I aggravate my elbows, so I don’t do too much volume here but I still feel it’s important to get some pullups in, well below my max effort), and some hangboarding to maintain strength. If I am feeling OK and have time, I will then go do some boulder problems.

    2 - A calisthenics routine that currently consists of pushups, pistol squats, dragon flags, and some knuckle rehab exercises

    3 - A sort of “moving hangs” type session. I stick on the TV and do 30 mins to 1 hour of various light grips on the hangboard with feet on the floor, just maintaining a very light pump throughout.


  • For me it’s Adobe. Stupid government and other forms I need for work. No available third party software will work on some of them, and I’ve tried them all. And for some dumb reason even having an Acrobat subscription won’t let me fill them out on their (extremely buggy, by the way) web app.

    Was never able to get it working with wine.

    That, and the compatibility between Libreoffice (or other Linux office software) and MS Word is still terrible. I’m quite sure that’s mostly due to shenanigans by MS. So if you have to swap documents back and forth between people (e.g. with track changes) it just doesn’t work as well. And, like Adobe, the web app version of Word seems to be kneecapped in a few key places.












  • I would have expected manufacturers to be increasing production due to the bubble, so when demand evaporates there would be an oversupply. EG - expanded memory production would lead to an oversupply of memory post-burst, leading to a reduction in prices. But a quick google shows at least memory and HDD manufacturers aren’t increasing output, possibly recognizing a bubble, and some things (e.g. GPU’s, SSD’s) are supply-constrained due to memory shortages. Others like CPU manufacturers seem to be increasing supply capacity. So maybe it’s more of a mixed bag.


  • So, everyone seems against this. But, given that elevators are very expensive to maintain and repair, why shouldn’t the users who use it the most pay more than those who don’t? Catoblepas mentioned disability, so yes you could exempt those people. But for example in a high rise, those on a higher floor typically will have a higher market value than those on lower floors (or a higher rent, but similarly are likely to be relatively higher income). And people who are particularly heavy users will otherwise cause maintenance and repair costs to be spread over other people who aren’t heavy users, and that’s not really fair either.